Sunday 4 February 2007

Review: Tengo, St Austell

When Tengo opened in St Austell, it was perhaps expected to herald a new dawn of frapuccino frolics and latte laughter. The days of curling sliced egg sandwiches accompanied by weak tea were over, replaced by mexican wraps and sparkling water. Surely the rest of the town would follow in Tengo's footsteps and finally leave the dark days of the seventies behind?

Well, it didn't, so Tengo remains the very pinnacle of modernity in the mess of charity shops and pasty emporia that is Fore Street. The menu is fresh and contemporary, eschewing sausage rolls and iced buns in favour of salads, pizza, sandwiches and soups, as well as a range of cakes and cookies. Price-wise, it's incredibly good value, averaging only around £2.50 for a sandwich and £1.50 for a coffee.

When we ate there last Saturday, things got off to a poor start with service so slow we almost walked out. The door was propped open despite the lowest temperatures this winter, and I noticed that the interior's modern crispness has lost a bit of its shine. But the food, when it arrived, was good, if nothing special. I had a wrap and a salad (I was very hungry), both of which were fresh and very filling but a little bland. My partner had spicy chicken salad and a prawn wrap, both of which were "nothing special" but the salad itself was good.


Tengo does have a dedicated restaurant hidden away upstairs, which might well be superb for all I know. As for the cafe itself, it's essentially a sandwich bar with tables. And that's no bad thing: it's neither twee nor tatty, and it sells the kind of food that young people prefer to toasted teacakes. The food itself is perfectly adequate, the coffee is fantastic and the opportunities for people-watching are good.


Scores: (As a sandwich bar, not a restaurant or cafe etc)

Food:6/10
Service: 6/10
Ambiance: 5/10
Overall: 6/10

Betty

2 comments:

Emma said...

Tengo serves good home made food at very reasonable prices. The quality of the coffee is always hit and miss depending on who is serving. Upstairs definitely has a better ambience that downstairs with a nice view of the church and a cosier feel. However it is nothing special. It always feels a bit grubby and neglected. It's attempt at creating a modern, sophisticated space with acrylic tables and leather sofas just misses the mark. Unfortunately it's the best coffee shop that St. Austell town centre has to offer. As per usual a lack of consumer choice allows these businesses to plod along with no attempt to up their game. Surely we can do better than this. The problem is if we don't expect the best, we won't get it. The fact that it's cheap shouldn't be a reason to excuse quality of food or the environment in which it is served. I know Costa coffee is more expensive but it is in a different league, I'd rather pay more and be confident that the product on offer is the best. Lets up our expectations and demand more from St. Austell as a whole.

Anonymous said...

Emma would you like to review some more stuff? Email me if so at the blog @ email address:)